Ronald and Margaret at Downton Abbey
A Personal Note From Ronald,
I hope you had a wonderful Holiday Season, sharing great Bordeaux wines with your loved ones. Margaret and I celebrated with Figéac 1982 and Mouton Rothschild 2003. Both wines were extraordinary wine-experiences. Speaking of Mouton, this remarkable First Growth released the new artwork for the 2016 vintage. And they selected for the first time a South African artist. We’ll tell you all about this new label.
Dust and noise this winter
Many guests ask me what I do in winter as we do not have tours in this season. “Ronald you must be board stiff all winter,” is a question I get a lot.
Well, living in a chateau comes with its advantages and also with its challenges. And in winter we usually confront the challenges. As I write this, there are four workmen shouting and drilling in the chateau. Two painters are working outside and Margaret and I are behind our computers writing this Magazine. The renovations will take about three months, but having said that, in France you know when a renovation starts but you never know when it ends…
Ronald showing some of his Holiday Highlights
Ronald and Margaret at "Downton Abbey"
Visiting Downton Abbey
But intense as renovations can be sometimes, we are small potatoes compared to some other chateaux.
Margaret and I visited Highclere Castle, as Downton Abbey is called in real life.
And in real life living at Highclere has its challenges as well, as the Countess of Carnarvon explained to us.
We had a lovely time visiting Highclere and chatting with Lady Carnarvon and we’ll take you along on our visit in this newsletter. And there is good news if you want to learn more about the Crawley family. A major film is set to be released in the fall of 2019.
Join us on a 2019 Bordeaux Wine Tour
You can’t stay at Highclere but staying at our own modest Coulon Laurensac is also a great experience on its own scale. We still have some spots available on some of our 2019 Bordeaux Wine Tours. Here you’ll visit some of the best wineries in Bordeaux, have great meals in venues not open to the public and taste all five First Growths plus Yquem. And in 2019 we will compare the Lafite Rothschild 1985 to the Margaux 1985, on the farewell dinner in our Chateau Coulon Laurensac. I can’t promise you Carson but our own Philippe will do a great job as well.
Check out our Bordeaux Wine Tours here.
Great fun in front of Chateau Margaux
I would love to hear from you
May I ask for your feedback Brian. I am trying to find out what my readers want from me. It would help me if you could let me know what kind of subjects you would like me to write about in 2019. You can reach me here: (Ronald@bxwinex.com) or simply reply to this magazine. I look forward to hear from you.
And please remember: Don’t drink anything I wouldn’t drink!
Cheers from Bordeaux,
Ronald Rens, M. Sc., Wine Master
Wine writer and President
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Highclere Castle, the real Downton Abbey
By Margaret Rens
Lady Carnarvon, our hostess at "Downton Abbey"
The real Downton Abbey
Lady Mary, Lord Grantham or Carson. Are you familiar with these names? They are characters from the hugely popular TV series Downton Abbey. Ronald and I are big fans. Downton Abbey is a tv drama series set in the beginning of the 1900’s and tells the story of the Crawley family who live on the family estate Downton Abbey in England.
The story focuses on the family developments but also on their servants and the history of England and the world in these turmoiled years.
Limited visiting options
When I heard of an opportunity to visit Downton Abbey last fall I quickly went online to secure us two tickets. We planned a visit to our boys in London and then off we went into the English country side. It was wonderful to see Highclere Castle in real and visit the rooms we knew from the television series. What was even more wonderful was we got to meet Lady Carnarvon herself and have a lovely conversation over tea. (no wine, bummer)
Margaret in one of the "follies" in the park
A detail of the entrance door at Highclere
Plumber on speed-dial
It was funny to see that although the scales of Highclere Castle and Chateau Coulon Laurensac are not comparable, many of the challenges that come with chateau-life are just the same.
Lady Carnarvon has her plumber and electrician on speed dial in her phone just like Ronald. And she explained she never has the house for herself. There are always repairman or painters present to keep the place up. Something we also can relate to. As I write this we are sharing our home with 4 builders that are doing renovations on the chateau this winter.
The iconic library featuring often in Downton Abbey
Over 300 rooms
The location for the popular television series Downton Abbey is filmed at Highclere Castle in Hampshire, roughly 1,5 hours south west of London. The Castle is the family home of the 8th Earl and Countess of Carnarvon. The castle has been part of the family since the late 17th century and the current Lord and Lady Carnarvon live here year-round.
The castle boasts no less than 300 rooms on an estate of 6000 acres. You can imagine that running a place like this can easily take you on a steady road to bankruptcy.
By 2009, the castle was in dire need of major repair, with only the ground and first floors remaining usable. Water damage had caused stonework to crumble and ceilings to collapse; at least 50 rooms were uninhabitable. Repairs needed for the entire estate were estimated to cost around £12 million (15 million US$), £1.8 million of which was urgently needed just for the castle.
When the production team for Downton Abbey was looking for a location to shoot the series they discovered the estate and fell in love with it. Lord and Lady Carnarvon planned to use the money paid by the production for much needed repairs on the turrets and its interior. What they did not foresee was the huge popularity of the series that increased the demands for visits to the estate dramatically.
Lady Carnarvon taking us behind the scenes
at Highclere Castle
The large mahogany table at Highclere can seat
easily 25 guests
Since 2010 the family has opened up their home for a select number of visitors from all over the world thus allowing them to continue the restoration of the chateau. These visits are scarce and very popular so if you want to visit yourself make sure you book early.
Bates
Driving up to the castle along the same path Bates walks in the first Downton Abbey episode was like entering a dream. We passed the high gates and started to see the rough outlines of the castle. In 1838 the 3rd Earl of Carnarvon brought in Sir Charles Barry to transform his home into a grand mansion which would impress the world. Barry was the prominent architect of his time and his genius was recognized throughout Europe. His most famous design is probably the Houses of Parliament in London.
Puppies
We started our visit in the main Entrance Hall with the large staircase where Lady Carnarvon and her 3 delightful Labrador puppies welcomed us. Family portraits where everywhere and our guide explained the history of the family with great detail and humor.
Formal table
I loved the visit of the dining room. The large mahogany table from 1870 can seat easily 25 guests. Our dining table at Coulon Laurensac is about 30 years older but has a mere 5 extension leaves instead of 12. It must have been a nightmare to serve dinner guests hot food because the kitchens of the castle are tucked away in the furthest corners in the cellars. This was done to limit fire risk but for the staff this layout is a logistic nightmare to say the least.
Lady Carnarvon explained that she loves to organize Sunday lunches in the dining room.
Much like you see Bates do in Downton Abbey, Highclere’s own team of Luis, Jorge and Matthew take well over an hour to set a formal table for a dinner party of 14 guests. Wearing white gloves and using a keen eye, everything is carefully positioned and assessed for being sufficiently polished. This applies not just to the cutlery but also to all the various silver decorative pieces that are used to set a formal table. The menu is designed by lady Carnarvon herself in close collaboration with her chef. Menus are relatively simple with a starter, main course, pudding (dessert) and cheese. In England the cheese course is the final course of the meal whereas in France cheese is served before dessert. We’ll have to forgive the English; they also drive on the wrong side of the road.
An architecture resembling the Houses of Parliament in London
We can’t offer you Carson, but our Philippe is doing a great job
at Chateau Coulon Laurensac
Wine celar
Lord Carnarvon’s wine cellar at Highclere Castle is truly varied with a wide collection of wines from around the world. He takes it up himself in close cooperation with the butler to select suitable wines to complement each dish. Some Bordeaux’s that are among the collection are a Chateau Tour de Mons Margaux 2003 or a Chateau Giscours 2005. Both are excellent wines to accompany for example a Beef Wellington. We were a little disappointed that we were not able to visit the actual wine cellar.
Tutankhamun
Highclere Castle used to boast an enormous wine cellar until only a few decades ago. But Lord and Lady Carnarvon have dedicated the largest part of the cellars to an exhibition celebrating the discovery of the tomb of Tutankhamun in 1923 by the 5th Lord Carnarvon and Howard Carter. The exhibition tells the story of the 5th’s Earl’s life from the late Victorian period to the time, just after the end of the Great War of this great discovery. So in favor of Tutankhamun, the wine cellar is limited to a smaller surface.
Canada was born here
We also discussed Canada’s constitution. Going through the castle’s archives Lady Carnarvon discovered nearly eight weeks of almost daily correspondence between the 4th Earl and the first Prime Minister of Canada Sir John A. MacDonald.
This correspondence shows that Highclere Castle was at the very center of the discussions surrounding the British North American Bill and its drafting. Indeed, it was the 4th Earl himself who took the British North America Act to Parliament in February 1867, which led to the creation of the Dominion of Canada on July 1st of the same year.
High Tea at Highclere
We were just sitting down to enjoy some tea and scones when Lady Carnarvon’s phone rang. It was a call from her builder, which she anxiously had been waiting for, to discuss the next stage of the repairing project of the roofs. We excused Lady Carnarvon straight away knowing first-hand the most important rule of building: When your mason calls, you answer immediately because you never know when you can get a hold on him again.
Margaret enjoying a high tea at Highclere Castle
Highclere Castle, owned by Lord and Lady Carnarvon, is set in 6,000 acres
The label for the Mouton Rothschild 2016 revealed
Ronald with Philippe Sereys de Rothschild (R) and Julien de Beaumarchais de Rothschild
Mouton 2016 label
Every year since 1945, a great artist has illustrated the label of Chateau Mouton Rothschild. Famous names in contemporary art are brought together in a collection to which a new work is added each year. This collection never fails to wow our guests on our Bordeaux Wine Tours when we visit Mouton.
The owners of Mouton, Philippe Sereys de Rothschild, Camille Sereys de Rothschild and Julien de Beaumarchais de Rothschild, gave the commission for the 2016 vintage to the South African painter, sculptor, video artist and stage director William Kentridge (1955). Kentridge is the first internationally renowned artist from the African continent to illustrate a Mouton label. Exhibiting in the world’s leading galleries and the winner of prestigious prizes, he asserts a “political art” that is nevertheless open to both humor and poetry.
The Triumphs of Bacchus
In his work for Mouton, The Triumphs of Bacchus, the silhouettes he assembles in a joyful procession are inspired by Bacchic characters from the paintings of great masters from Titian to Matisse, underlining the truth that a great wine, although first and foremost a pleasure, is also inseparable from a cultural tradition which demands respect and moderation!
Be that as it may, I simply fell in love with the Mouton 2016. It was my wine of the vintage and I gave it the perfect score of 20 points on 20. You can read my tasting notes of this incredible wine here:
The mouton Rothschild 2016 label revealed
South African artist William Kentridge
Margaret with Camille Sereys de Rothschild
Tasting notes Mouton Rothschild 2016
(20 points)
[83% Cabernet Sauvignon, 15% Merlot, 1% Cabernet Franc and 1% Petit Verdot]
Super concentrated color without being inky black. On the nose this wine is simply superb. I had written down: WOW! Loads of fruit like blackcurrant, coffee, cedar wood and tobacco. I simply wanted to sit there an just smell this wine for hours.
On the palate one can’t fail to be impressed by the perfect balance between the incredible fruit and the precise and silky tannins.
This powerful Mouton combines a remarkable freshness and a superb length. This wine seems to go on and on and on. This is an incredibly well balanced wine with a roundness I have rarely found in a Pauillac barrel sample.
I found the precision in the fruit even better than in 2015. Power and elegance in perfect balance. With a very reasonable alcohol percentage of 13,2% we are back to a more classic Bordeaux.
Possibly my wine of the vintage. Twenty points without a doubt.
Bravo to Philippe Dhalluin and his team!
Because you want a Bordeaux Wine Experience
and not “just” a wine tour!
Great fun on the master class on the first night on our Bordeaux Wine Experiences
An amazing Bordeaux Wine Experience
Our motto
Because you want a Bordeaux Wine Experience and not “just” a wine tour!
Simply the best
On each of Bordeaux Wine Tours you will see and taste all five of the iconic First Growths—Château Latour, Lafite Rothschild, Mouton-Rothschild, Haut-Brion and Margaux plus the legendary Yquem.
Attention to detail
We happily invest hundreds (yes hundreds!) of collective hours and an enormous amount of attention to many details in our tours. That, combined with love for what we do, passion and lots of care, continues to make our tours the best of its kind.
A true experience
All this TLC is the hallmark for a true experience and that’s exactly why people come back to us again and again. Even after 15 years of experience, every possible detail of our tours still gets our personal attention. We personally handpick each and every element of each itinerary. Everything is first tested and tried by us personally.
Wine Lovers Tour Bordeaux
Remember we only conduct 6 tours per year and with only six double and one singe room per tour, participation is extremely limited.
Discover of our 2019 Bordeaux Wine Tours.
Be a part of 2019 Bordeaux Wine Tour schedule here
Exclusive and fun Chateau lunches, not open to
the general public
Great fun in a relaxed atmosphere while tasting First Growths at the Farewell dinner at Chateau Coulon Laurensac
A personal approach and great fun with a lot of laughter
Chateau Coulon Laurensac, build in 1724 and almost a
century before Chateau Margaux
Amazing experience
Our guests rave about the unique atmosphere on our tours: our personal approach and the great fun with a lot of laughter. Superb wines and memorable meals at venues not open to the public are an important element as well. Did I mention the shopping spree at a farmers-market that had been going on for seven centuries?
Or the cooking class with Margaret while Ronald doesn’t stop opening and pouring wines?
And what about staying at a private chateau, build in 1724 and almost a century older than Chateau Margaux?
Pampered all the way
There are so many elements that make our Bordeaux Wine Tours a unique experience.
And now we have added tasting Chateau Margaux 1985 to our tours. So join us in Bordeaux and you will experience a wine vacation that you can’t find anywhere else in the world.
You will be pampered all the way: From your first glass of bubbly when you arrive at our chateau to the traditional final wine on the Farewell-dinner the Chateau d’Yquem of over 20 years old.
Simply click here and ask us for an Itinerary and join us in Bordeaux for a wine vacation of a lifetime.
A really fun cooking class
As much a culinary tour as a Bordeaux Wine Experience
Our 2019 Bordeaux Wine Tour Program
Because you deserve a Bordeaux Wine Experience and not "just a tour"
The Bordeaux Grand Cru Harvest Tour
The Harvest Tour is Grand in every way, both in food and wine. Enjoy chateau meals and Michelin rated dining. The most exciting time in Bordeaux is harvest time. You can sense the anticipation in the air.
And the food is superb as well: Exclusive meals at extraordinary venues not normally open to the public. On top of that you’ll see and taste all five First Growths and Superior First Growth Chateau d’Yquem and many of them will be older vintages!
Ask us for an Itinerary here.
Experience Bordeaux in full harvest swing
Enjoy meals in venues not open to the public while tasting
the best wines of Bordeaux
The Bordeaux Grand Cru tour
This is probably our most exclusive tour. This ultimate wine tour for Bordeaux lovers is as good as it gets. Can you believe that you’ll see and taste all five First Growths and Superior First Growth Chateau d’Yquem including some older vintages! Of course we include the best of Saint Emilion and Pomerol as well. Add to this outstanding meals at exceptional venues not normally open to the public and you’ll see why this tour usually sells out early.
Ask us for an Itinerary here.
The Grand Tour of Bordeaux
The Grand Tour may be the most special tour we offer, with meals as exceptional as your visits. Imagine tasting all five First Growths and Yquem. And there is more: Superb chateau meals and Michelin rated dining… Add to this the best of Pomerol and Saint Emilion and you’ll see that this dazzling Grand Tour of Bordeaux is your chance to see and taste the very best that Bordeaux has to offer.
Feel completely Special and Pampered on this Exclusive Experience
The Farewell dinner is an awesome experience that creates memories of a lifetime
2019 Bordeaux Wine Tour Schedule
May 20 – May 25 (2019)
Last room available
June 3 – June 8 (2019)
Last rooms available
June 17 – June 22 (2019)
(Sold out!)
The Bordeaux September Grand Cru Harvest Tour I
September 9 – Sept 14 (2019)
Last rooms available
The Bordeaux September Grand Cru Harvest Tour II
September 23 – Sept 28 (2019)
Last rooms available
The Bordeaux October Grand Cru Harvest Tour
October 7 – October 12 (2019)
Open for booking
_____________________________________________________________________
What you can expect from a Bordeaux Wine Experience with us?
•
Exclusive touring: limited to six double/twin rooms and one single
•
Carefree and truly effortless travel in Bordeaux: We take care of everything, really everything
•
See and taste all 5 First Growths and Château Yquem!
•
Expert (and humorous) guidance by Bordeaux specialist Ronald Rens
•
Air-conditioned accommodation at our privately owned 18th century chateau
•
Taste more Classified Growths than on any other Bordeaux wine tour!
•
Grand Cru Farewell Dinner with all Grand Cru wines (including Chateau d’Yquem!)
•
Gourmet meals at Bordeaux Chateaux and a Michelin starred restaurant!
•
Grand Cru wines with all meals (except breakfast…)
•
Air-conditioned, luxury motor coach transportation throughout the tour
•
Great food and wine and a lot of fun in a small group
Chateau Coulon Laurensac, the best place in the world to taste all five First Growths plus Yquem…
The Bordeaux Wine Experience
at Chateau Coulon Laurensac
1, chemin de Meydieu
33360 Latresne (BORDEAUX), France
Website : www.BXWINEX.com
Call us:
1-877-203-2665 (toll free from USA & Canada) or
+33 556 20 64 12 (from anywhere else in the world)
(These lines go directly to our Chateau in Bordeaux so please remember that we’re on Paris time!)
Copyright 2018 by The Bordeaux Wine Experience. All rights reserved. The content, design and graphical elements of this Magazine are copyrighted. The Bordeaux Wine Experience is a Dutch company specializing in wine and culinary tours in the Bordeaux region for an English speaking international clientele.